Defining
fire.
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Firefighters are taught that fire is
the rapid oxidation of a fuel with the evolution of heat and light (?) As
soon as they learn what it is, they are taught how to put it out. It's
a shame that more emphasis is not put on preventing the fire from happening !
(Dave's pet peeve). Anyway, 4 things need to happen just right to make fire;
a fuel must combine with a heat source in enough air to begin off-gassing;
then, a chemical chain reaction begins, and the gas is ignited by the heat.
flammable + ignition+ oxygen=fire
Translation: most things that burn need oxygen and a heat source before fire
occurs. Further translation: keep the fuels away from the
heat sources, wherever possible, and you too can prevent fires from occurring.
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Types of fire.
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There
are 4 types of
fire commonly seen, and 1 type rarely seen--but possible, in your daily life.
These types are indicative of the fuel types or fire causes.
Class
"A"
fires involve ordinary combustible material as fuel (most common), such as:
wood, paper, plastic, rubber, and cloth. The international pictogram is
a green triangle with an A inside.
Class "B"
fires involve flammable liquids and gases, exclusively. The international
pictogram is a red square with a B inside.
Class "C"
fires involve energized electrical equipment. When the electricity is cut
off, these fires are then treated as a Class A or B type. The international
pictogram is a blue circle with a C inside.
Class "D" fires involve combustible metals. These aren't seen very often,
but sometimes these metals are used in automobile and machine manufacturing
and construction. The international pictogram is a yellow star with a D
inside.
Class "K" fires
involve a liquid cooking medium (oil or grease).
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Types of fire extinguishers.
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The most
common portable
fire extinguisher is the "dry chemical"
"stored-pressure" type. This type contains a very dry, specially
formulated chemical or powder that is meant to interrupt the chemical chain
reaction necessary for flame development--so the fire goes out ! Dry chemical
fire extinguishers are made for each type of fire. You must anticipate the
potential hazard(s) and be sure to match the type of fire extinguisher with
the type of fire that might occur. A 5 to 6 pound dry chemical extinguisher
is rated at 2 or 3A:40B:C.
There
are also specially formulated "wet chemical",
stored-pressure fire extinguishers that work in about the same way. They also
provide a limited "cooling" and "smothering" effect. Most
wet chemical fire extinguishers are rated from 40B:C and higher. A very
effective hybrid portable is the foam type. This extinguisher is
good for Class A, B, & C fires. A 2-liter foam extinguisher is rated at
8A; 70B; C. The 6-liter Class K extinguisher, for cooking
mediums, is a wet chemical type.
There
are also stored-pressure water fire extinguishers. Each one
carries 2.5 gallons of water, and some have special additives to keep them
from freezing or to make them more effective. Without additives, the water
extinguisher is 2A-rated.
Stored-pressure
fire extinguishers are immediately ready to use--they have the
expellant means already inside the shell (canister). This is usually a charge
of (inert) Nitrogen gas.
Non-stored-pressure fire
extinguishers do not have their agent under pressure, but carry the
pressurizing cylinder on the side. This type must be pressurized before it
can be used.
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Fire
extinguisher rating system.
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The
rating system for portable fire extinguishers can be very confusing. It is
based on the types of fire, i.e., A:B:C:D:or K. When testing began long ago,
labs used a 3'x3'x3' "crib" of loosely stacked wood. If a fire
extinguisher and a trained operator could extinguish this crib of wood when
fully involved with fire, it received a 1A rating. To visualize higher
ratings, just multiply the volume of the "cribbed" wood stack. A 5
to 6 pound dry chemical extinguisher is rated at 2 or 3A depending on its chemical
mixture. All other things being equal, a 4A rated extinguisher should be able
to extinguish twice as much fire as a 2A rated extinguisher. Remember: this
is in a lab with a trained operator !
The
standard rating for flammable and combustible liquids is 1 square foot of
surface area of a "pooled" liquid at an appreciable depth
(1/4" or more). Liquids will always seek a lower place, so they will
always attempt to "pool" and therefore contain themselves. Liquids
that are unconfined pose a greater risk, and are referred to as
"three-dimensional" spills. The rating for one unit (1'x1') is 1B.
The smallest B:C type extinguishers (2 to 3 lb.) have a 5 to 10B rating. All
other things being equal, an extinguisher rated 40B should be twice as
effective as one rated 20B.
There is
no standard rating for Class C and Class D fires. When a Class C fire is
de-energized, it is treated as a Class A or B type.
Class D
fires burn ferociously, they may burn in the absence of air, and they are
highly reactive to water. These fires must be completely covered with a
compatible agent to at least 1/4" to 1/2", or more.
Class K
fire extinguishers (6-liter) are rated 2A:1B:C:K. Although this doesn't seem
like a lot, these extinguishers are specially formulated to be compatible
with most commercial restaurant hood fire suppression systems, and they can
certainly be used at home. They offer easier clean-up and less down-time
after use.
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When to use portable fire extinguishers.
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A
common misconception is
that the primary purpose of portable fire extinguishers is to put out small
fires before they get bigger. While that is surely a secondary purpose, you
should select them, place them, and maintain them as if your life depended on
them ! The primary purpose of a fire extinguisher should be for life
safety--for your protection during an emergency escape.
To
stop a small fire from getting bigger, a portable fire extinguisher should
still only be used under certain circumstances:
~ The
fire is small and not developing quickly.
~ The
user knows how and is comfortable with using the extinguisher.
~ The
material involved in the fire is known and not hazardous.
~ The
extinguisher is compatible with the fuel that is involved.
~ The
area of the fire is not already filled with heat and smoke.
~ The
user needs no personal protective equipment.
~ The
way out is not blocked in any way.
The
fire department should always be called first, if possible !
If
all of these conditions are not present, it probably will not be safe for you
to fight the fire alone. CALL THE
PROFESSIONALS !
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How to use portable fire extinguishers.
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Pull - the
safety pin;
Aim - the
nozzle or hose at the base of the fire;
Squeeze -
the lever to release the agent;
Sweep -
the agent from side-to-side at the base of the fire.
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Matching the extinguisher with the hazard.
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Using a
portable fire
extinguisher that is compatible with the type of fire you have can be very
important to your safety and to the results of the application. The rating
system indicates which type (single-purpose) or types (multi-purpose) of fire
a particular extinguisher can effectively be used.
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Reading the label.
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Reading
the manufacturer's label
on a portable fire extinguisher is vitally important. Everything you need to
know can be found there. Look for the type of fire it is compatible with, the
relative effectiveness rating, the type of agent that is inside, operating
and maintenance instructions, and approvals of credible testing laboratories,
such as Underwriter's Laboratories (UL).
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Proper mounting is important.
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The
proper placement of
your portable fire extinguisher is very important. You want it near the fire
hazard, but not too close. You want it to be nearby, but also on the way out
of the room, area, or house where it is strategically located. Don't cover
them up or allow them to be used as a coat rack ! Extinguishers should always
be within sight and ready to use at all times--when you need them, there will
be no time to waste trying to gain access to this life saving device.
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Proper maintenance is essential.
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Proper
maintenance of
your portable fire extinguisher is essential to your piece of mind, and it
ensures that the extinguisher will function properly when you need it most.
Each manufacturer puts recharge and maintenance information on the label,
which is affixed to the extinguisher. Generally, all aluminum and steel
shell, stored-pressure extinguishers must be inspected at least annually,
maintained every six years beginning with the date of manufacture, and
hydro-statically tested and maintained every 12 years beginning with the date
of manufacture.
In
residential use, the owners can perform inspections. A specialty contractor
must be used to perform the maintenance and hydro-test. In commercial use,
all inspections, testing, and maintenance must be performed by a "qualified"
contractor (and they are not created equally !). Inspections can and should
be performed monthly, and in places of employment this is required by OSHA.
Inspections
are non-invasive, and consist of looking at extinguishers to see that they
are where they should be, that they have not been damaged or used, and that
they appear to have adequate pressure by some indicator (most commonly a
gauge).
Maintenance
includes a discharge of the agent, disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and
pressurization. This constitutes a full functional test.
A
hydrostatic test assures the integrity of the shell or canister of the
extinguisher. The shell is emptied and filled with water, and then pumped to
double the working pressure of the extinguisher--usually 200~400 psi. If the
shell does not burst (rarely ever happens), it is dried and
"maintenance" is performed.
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Making your selection.
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Now
that you know a
little more about portable fire extinguishers, it's time to make your
selection. How many do you need, of what type and size should they be, and
where is the best place to put them in your dwelling or business ?
Generally
speaking, you need one or more for life safety and protection of property and
one for each special hazard you may have. They should also be in every
"compartment" of your dwelling--this is defined by locked doors or
floor levels.
To
simplify the process, you should have one minimum 2-A rated extinguisher that
is easily accessible on each occupied floor level of your dwelling. To
minimize size and weight, this is best accomplished by installing a 5-lb (or
larger), A:B:C rated, multi-purpose, dry chemical type of extinguisher or
2-liter foam type. The 2.5 gallon water extinguisher meets this minimum, but
is larger and heavier. The 6-liter Class K wet chemical extinguisher also
carries a 2-A rating. The advantage of water, foam, and wet chemical
extinguishers is less mess and easier clean-up after using them.
In
addition to this, you should have a minimum 10-B:C rated (or larger) dry
chemical extinguisher in the kitchen (but not too close to the stove),
however the best choice may be the 2-liter foam type. A Class K wet
chemical extinguisher would be larger and heavier, but also much more
effective. The foam and wet chemical types would definitely be easier to
clean-up after use. An A:B:C-rated multi-purpose dry chemical extinguisher in
the 2.5 to 5 pound size would also be small and effective.
You should
also place minimum 2A:40B:C rated (or larger) extinguishers in the garage,
workshop, barn, or other out-buildings. This can be accomplished with a 5-lb
or larger multi-purpose dry chemical type extinguisher or the 2-liter foam
type. The farther away help is, the more protection you may need.
Also, as a
general rule, having more of the right sized extinguishers can be more
beneficial and less expensive than having fewer and larger extinguishers.
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This blogspot is fully based upon the occupational health &safety related posts are uploaded and safety first task is create awareness of the people so please share.
Tuesday, 7 February 2017
Portable fire extinguishers
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